Caracas, Venezuela
One of South America's Most Happening Places

By Kevin Cassell

The capital city of Caracas is nestled in vast valley overlooked by an imposing mountain called "The Avila." There are few vistas in this sprawling city that don't reveal the mountain range surrounding it.

Caracas is an old city with a little bit of everything. I lived here for a year (2001-2) and will always remember it for its vitality. Don't be put off by reports about how "dangerous" and "crime ridden" the city is. Unless you go to the many barrios and squatter settlements in the outskirts, you should be fine. Exercise caution as you would in any city, but don't feel encumbered by the alarmists' calls to "be home by sunset!"
No matter where you go in Caracas you will see The Avila looming over the city. Mountainous Caracas has the best climate in the world.

 

If you like eating, drinking, and dancing till all hours of the night, then you'll appreciate the thriving nightlife in Caracas. Don't go to early, though. Clubs don't start hopping until well after 2 a.m.! The trendiest places are in Las Mercedes and around Altamira. Cover charge varies, but expect to pay about 10,000 bolivares (currently about $10) to enter one of these spots. In exchange you'll get coupons for about four free beers or two mixed drinks.

There are many places that don't have a cover charge. You'll find some great spots around Sabana Grande. But beware: They can get pretty crowded after midnight. If you're claustrophobic, go to the big places in Las Mercedes.
The nightlife here is awesome. If you're in the "family," check out Tiffany's in Altimira or Pullman in Sabana Grande. Great crowds!

 

Caracas has many outdoor eateries (or, if you're like me, drinkeries) like this one on the Avinida Mexico near Bellas Artes. The most popular of these places are in Sabana Grande. My favorite was the Grand Cafe. If you go there, ask to sit in Reinaldo's section. He's a great waiter who moved to Caracas from the Dominican Republic four years ago. There are many Dominicans living and working in Caracas. Sometimes you may be approached by mendicants looking for a handout. Feel free to give them a small amount of cash. But if you don't have any, just wave them away with a smile. More than 80% of the population in Caracas lives in poverty, and much of it is dire.

It's not hard to find a place to hang out and enjoy a coffee, snack, or a few beers in this bustling city packed with social spots.
Altamira Plaza is a hotspot of anti-Chavez sentiment and action. All protest marches begin and end at this obelisk.

 

The rich and the poor, the old and the new, the beautiful and the ugly... Caracas is a city of extremes, which give it an especially dynamic quality.

As of this writing, Venezuela is sharply divided between the poor and working-class majority who support the current president, Hugo Chavez, and the rich and very rich who despise him.

Chavez was overthrown in a 2002 coup that installed a one-day pro-American dictatorship. Forces within the military, however, refused to follow the lead of the high command, and he was restored to power. I was there when it happened. It was the closest this country has come to an all-out civil war. There is talk of another coup. If that happens, Venezuela will most likely slide into chaos. As of this 2004 writing, the country continues to experience significant political unrest.
Pro-Chavez graffiti can be found all around the city, especially in the poorer districts. Below, a Chavista holds aloft a photo of the democratically elected president who has raised the consciousness of the poor and given hope to the disenfranchized.
This building, one of two (este and oeste), offers viewers a panoramic view of Caracas and the surrounding areas. Underneath is a sprawling sub-ground mall that goes on and on.

 

In Parque Central rise the two tallest skyscrapers in Caracas. Together they remind you of the erstwhile Twin Towers at the World Trade Center. Parque Central, once an elegant cosmopolitan oasis in the center of the city, is now a run-down but hip hangout spot for skateboarders, rastafarians, artists, small business people, and the ubiquitous homeless people. Parque Central is next to the "Bellas Artes" metro station. The Hilton, National Museum, and Museum of Contemporary Art are all within blocks of each other in this vibrant area of the city

Caracas has lots of what I call "sanctums" -- quiet, frequently deserted public spots with fountains, flowers, and statues. These are usually blocked in between giant residential complexes, as is this one.

Below this complex is a "city beneath a city," a sprawling maze of stores, eateries, internet cafes, and small businesses. There is something about Caracas, and this area in particular, that reminds me of the movie "Blade Runner."

 
Hola, Javiar! Este hombre es un amigo que me muestra la ciudad. El vive en Petari.

Plaza Chacaito is just one place where you will find a cliche of Caracas: hanging mobile art in the vein of Alexander Calder. Art is very public in Caracas. And there are a lot of artists. Colorful murals and elaborate graffiti can be found all over the city in very public places. There is little to no attempt to cover up the increasingly political wall paintings (about 80% of the graffiti expresses support for Hugo Chavez).

There are many artists in Caracas who do not call themselves "artists" but whose jewelry, handicrafts, and other homemade items can be purchased fairly cheaply from vendors all over the city. Chavez has transformed Caracas into a sort of vibrant flea-market. Fashion boutiques now must compete with vendors selling equally compelling, and cheap, merchandize just outside their doors. Some of these vendors sell their own handicrafts, or those made from families who live in in the countryside.

Caracas is an interesting city that has something for everyone. Its energy is contagious. It's what you might call a "happening place."
This mobile in Plaza Chacaito is one of several in Caracas. Although I don't know the extent to which the general public appreciates art in Caracas, they do at least respect it. Rarely is public art the object of vandalism.